Advanced Surfing

If you watch surfing videos, which you should because they will teach you a great deal about short-boarding technique, notice how the surfer determines the move he or she will make by the shape and condition of the wave itself. The speed of the wave, in particular, will determine how to reposition your board. If the wave is slow, apply more weight on your front foot and step down to accelerate. If the wave speeds up, then take the opportunity to slide your front foot back an inch. Your knees should be bent throughout this process, which improves your center of gravity and balance.

When you decide to make your move and hit the lip, apply pressure on your back foot, which will allow your board to head up the wave. As you near the crest, release your foot so that you level out at the crest of the wave, with your board floating on the crest. Prepare to drop back down by bending your knees and pointing the tip of your board so that you can continue down the line. When you hit the bottom of the wave, do a quick bottom turn to gain acceleration to finish your ride.

Throughout your ride, your body and eyes should always be looking in the direction you want to go. Your back leg and upper body do most of the maneuvering. Hitting the lip involves steering with your back foot and forcing the movement with your shoulders. This trick takes a bit of practice, so don’t expect to land it the first try.

Long boarders can also perform this maneuver but should be careful not to be as aggressive with the movements, especially if the drop from the lip is more than four feet. The maneuver should be smoother and more fluid.